Oeno-File, the Wine & Gastronomy Column

by Frank Ward

Four Nights in Marseille
Latest articles

TASTING FROM SOME RECENTLY UNCORKED BOTTLES

TASTING GERMAN PINOTS NOIRS

Blind Tasting Chez Keith & Clare

A Further Tasting of 2015 Clarets – Part II
Wine Personalities
Oenology
Oenophilia
Gastronomy
PORTRAIT : Pierre Ramonet, the Master of Montrachet
A Retrospective Review of Eating Out in Stockholm
For two Pins! Tasting 82 & 98 Le Pin

Click on the image to read about the tasting of 82 & 98 Le Pin.
RSS
- RSS - Posts

Posts Tagged ‘italy’

BAROLO & BARBARESCO – Study in Scarlet

Posted by Frank Ward on December 17, 2017

December 2017. Earlier this year I attended a tasting of Piedmont wines hosted by Justerini & Brooks. The focus was on the 2013 vintage. Luckily a number of growers had the imagination also to show some more mature wines, notably from 2009, 2006, 2003, and 1999. This gave an invaluable insight into how Piedmont wines develop in the course of time. How else can one get to understand the long-term prospects of such wines, which can be especially hard to judge in youth? Barolo, that most masculine of Italian wines, vastly outnumbered all other appellations at the tasting; but some Barbarescos merited [….]

Posted in Italy, Other Countries | Tagged: Azlia, Castello di Verduno, elio altare, Elio Crasso, Guiseppe Marscarello, italy, Justerini & Brooks, Mario Marengo, Nebbiolo grape, piedmont, Roberto Voerzio, Scarzello | Leave a Comment »

A Tale of Three (Italian) Cities

Posted by Frank Ward on October 5, 2014

October 2014. On a quick visit to three north-Italian cities – Verona, Mantua, and Bologna – I was able to sample a few delicious dishes (and some appalling ones too) and a couple of splendid reds. One of the best meals was also the cheapest: A lovely cep risotto taken in a tiny, unpretentious bistro, l’Orlogio in Verona, chosen more or less at random. It came with a perfectly decent glass of red and finished with one of the best espressos I’ve had in years [….]

Posted in Gastronomy, Italy | Tagged: 1961 Château La Tour Bicheau, Al Calmerieri, Aquila Nigra, Bologna, elio altare, Fragoletta, Hotel Rechigi, I Portici, italy, La Fontanina, l’Orlogio, Mantua, Roccolo Grasso, Sandrone, Teresina, Verone | Leave a Comment »

Piedmont, Italy – Region of mists and mellow fruitfullness (II)

Posted by Frank Ward on July 30, 2011

A couple of decades ago Aldo Conterno was the hot name in Barolo while his cousin Giacomo was looked upon as staid and old-fashioned. The situation has gradually reversed and it is now Giacomo Conterno who is regarded as one of the absolute leaders of the appellation. Their approach to vatting-time is diametrically opposite to that of Altare.

Posted in Italy, Tasting notes | Tagged: barolo, Conterno, Elio Crasso, italy, piedmont, Roberto Voerzio | Leave a Comment »

Piedmont, Italy – Region of mists and mellow fruitfullness (I)

Posted by Frank Ward on July 21, 2011

The roar of the traffic gives way to birdsong as we quit the autostrada and find ourselves doing a gentle rollercoaster through the green hills and valleys of Piedmont. I give silent thanks to the people here, for knowing exactly where to place a building on a hillside in a way that enhances both peak and edifice. And the buildings are beautiful in their own right.

Posted in Italy, Tasting notes | Tagged: andrea sottimano, barolo, elio altare, italy, piedmont | Leave a Comment »