Oeno-File, the Wine & Gastronomy Column

by Frank Ward

Dinner With Friends

Posted by Frank Ward on February 7, 2014

AvatarFebruary 2014. We are three couples who meet regularly to eat dinner together and taste wines, each calculated to match the various dishes we try. The evenings seldom finish without our having tried at least eight or nine wines, all of them of distinction, even the few that prove to be over the top!. All are tasted blind. On blind tastings, a French wine producer once said to me: “la dégustation à l’aveugle est un exercice en l’humilité.” I made him chuckle by replying: “”Yes, and sometimes an exercise in humiliation!”.

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Tasting le Pin 1982 and 1998 with Andrew Jefford

Posted by Frank Ward on January 25, 2014

Jefford-Le-PinAndrew Jefford and Frank Ward have just tasted two great vintages of a Pomerol that’s achieved cult status : Château Le Pin.

As a foretaste of Andrew’s main article in the April “Decanter”, here’s his post in their online issue : Jefford on Monday : Giffen, Veblen – and Wine.

Andrew Jefford & Frank Ward, Le Pin tasting at Forres House.

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Tasting the 2009 clarets with the Masters of Wine

Posted by Frank Ward on January 12, 2014

January 2014. A tasting of 94 clarets and 12 Sauternes from 2009 was held in London in November 2013 under the auspices of the Institute of Masters of Wine: an ideal opportunity to assess a great vintage at a very good point in its development. Now around two years in the bottle, the wines have had time to recover from the rigours of bottling and to knit together sufficiently well to give a good idea of their overall constitution […..]

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The Nectar of the Gods: Frank Ward on investing in wine

Posted by Frank Ward on December 5, 2013

There are two chief motives for investing in wine. Monetary gain is one; buying young, high-quality wines and waiting for them to improve, for the delectation of you and your friends, is the other. A bottle of good wine is a time capsule. Without moving an inch it makes a journey through time and becomes utterly transformed in the process. The aggressive tannins and acids in infant wine soften and harmonize slowly, transmuting into perfumes and flavours of astonishing beauty. […]

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More Writers on Wine : Tolstoy, Strindberg, Hemingway

Posted by Frank Ward on August 16, 2013

August 2013. Hugh Johnson, our foremost wine writer (and, indeed, one of the English language’s finest stylists), suggests that wine may have originated in the Caucasus – southern Russia – some 6000 years B.C. Close to 8000 years later the world’s greatest novelist, Leo Tolstoy, describes harvest time in a Cossack community in the region of the Terek River, in that part of the Caucasus close to Chechnya. Picking had started as early as August….

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PRE-PHYLLOXERA PUZZLE : An 1870 Overture

Posted by Frank Ward on June 10, 2013

June 2013. It was one of the biggest challenges I’ve ever faced at a blind tasting. True, I’d been given one piece of vital information just before sampling the wine, namely the vintage: 1870. A wine that was 143 years’ old. But that wasn’t much help. I’d never sampled a wine of quite that age before and didn’t really know what to look for. In addition, no clue had been given as to the region, or even country of origin (though one could be pretty sure it was French, our host being a great fan of that ucontry’s wines). fresh tasting notes on fabled wines, 3 great vintages of musigny vieilles vignes

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Recent tastings

Posted by Frank Ward on January 31, 2013

January 2013. Nobody on earth – not the most brilliant scientist, not the richest billionaire – can instantly turn a young immature wine into a fully mature one. Only time can bring about this transformation. Sometimes the process can take an age (a good 60 years in the case of the obdurate, but ultimately great, 1926s!). The following bottles were purchased by me many years ago, within two or three years of the vintage in question, and then simply left to mature in my own 18th-century cellars or in Britain’s finest bonded warehouse, Octavian. All have been tasted within the last few months, to see if that long wait was justified… fresh tasting notes on fabled wines, 3 great vintages of musigny vieilles vignes

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English cuisine today – Farewell to the “goo anglais”

Posted by Frank Ward on January 2, 2013

December 2012. Winston Churchill, when First lord of the Admiralty, is quoted as saying, “British naval tradition? Nothing but rum, sodomy, prayers, and the lash!” Had he been asked about British culinary traditions, he might well have characterised them as “fry-ups, ketchup, and orange tea” (he never did so, however). Only recently has cooking in Britain started to recover from the devastating effects of the industrial revolution which, of course, started in these islands.

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Two Great Writers Comment on Wine

Posted by Frank Ward on November 24, 2012

The phylloxera epidemic was raging in all of the wine regions of France in the late 19th century, threatening their very existence. We read a lot about its devastating effect on viticulture and on wines, but precious little is written about the effects the wine-louse exerted on the lives of ordinary people in that era. In his fascinating book “Travels With a Donkey in the Cevennes” (1879), Robert Louis Stevenson throws some light on this subject. 

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Eating Out & Eating In

Posted by Frank Ward on September 18, 2012

Eating In & Eating Out. In which I describe some recent meals and vinous rarities and also have pleasure in publishing tasting notes on some 19th-century wines, written by David Matthews, the composer. One of Britain’s leading composers, David Matthews, has a house in Deal in southeast Kent (where I happen to live) and often comes down to the coast to work on his various compositions. In the course of his career he’s written seven symphonies, 12 string quartets, and all manner of other works, including a piece specially commissioned to mark the 90th birthday of the late Queen Mother. 

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