Oeno-File, the Wine & Gastronomy Column

by Frank Ward

Five Days in Rioja – Part II

Posted by Frank Ward on January 25, 2009

We’re motoring through landscape that’s a meld of the kind of ochres, umbers, and sepias that would have delighted Braque, not to mention Spain’s own master of subtly-coloured canvases, Juan Gris. The mountain peaks dent the dark, unmoving clouds, without puncturing them…

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Five Days in Rioja – Part I

Posted by Frank Ward on December 6, 2008

When I lived in Sweden some years ago I had three wine columns and used to devote quite a bit of space to Rioja wines because of their excellent value for money. In those days Gran Reservas from top vintages were released when 10 or even 12 years’ old, at a third of the price of comparable French wines that were, furthermore, far less mature.

Five Days in Rioja – Part I

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Some Reflections on Alsace Wines

Posted by Frank Ward on September 17, 2008

The Trimbach family of Alsace have been making fine Alsace wines for close on 400 years – they celebrated their 375th anniversary in 2001 – and are among the region’s vinous elite to this day. Leading judges like Hugh Johnson and Tom Stevenson have rated the family’s single-vineyard Clos Sainte Hune as the greatest…

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Tasting of Red & White Burgundies from Domaines Familiaux de Tradition

Posted by Frank Ward on April 28, 2008

 

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Emile Peynaud (1912-2004) – Giant of Oenology

Posted by Frank Ward on April 8, 2008

Emile Peynaud, who died recently in Talence at the age of 93, wrought enormous changes in the world of wine. It is hard to think of any other discipline in which one man exerted so much influence. In 1987 I was commissioned by the New York based magazine Connoisseur to write an article on Emile Peynaud. My two long meetings with him – facilitated by Michel Delon, the late proprietor of Château Léoville Las Cases – took place in his study in the Bordeaux suburb of Talence and at Las Cases itself. 

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Burgundy Excursion

Posted by Frank Ward on July 15, 2007

The Pinot Noir of Burgundy is one of the world’s greatest grapes. It is also one of the quirkiest. It ripens with difficulty, and once ripe easily becomes overripe, thus losing its unique purity and finesse. It is susceptible to rot, and if unripe can give unpleasantly raw, astringent flavours.

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The 2005 Vintage on the Right Bank Part 2

Posted by Frank Ward on November 18, 2006

We’re poised to step onto Pomerol terroir but first let’s take a closer look at the grape mix for the whole of the right bank, with special reference to Pomerol itself. There are many quirks and paradoxes, even though only three varieties are really in the picture.

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The 2005 Vintage on the Right Bank 1 – Continued

Posted by Frank Ward on November 17, 2006

Canon has long enjoyed the status of Premier Grand Cru Classé, placing it among the elite of Saint Emilion. None the less, its performance has been patchy, despite its great potential. Former owner Eric Fournier was an immensely likeable man who clearly strove to make the best possible wine. But it appears that resources were lacking.

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The 2005 Vintage on the Right Bank Part 1

Posted by Frank Ward on November 16, 2006

A while ago I dropped in on the right bank of Bordeaux (Pomerol, Saint Emilion) to get some idea of the 2005 vintage, reputed to be one of the greatest of all time. As well as tasting some magnificent ’05s there was also a vertical of Château Canon, a look at three top vintages of the Premiers Grands Crus Classés of Saint Emilion, and an overview of some splendid Pomerols from the house of Moueix.

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