Oeno-File, the Wine & Gastronomy Column

by Frank Ward

Four Nights in Marseille
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Posts Tagged ‘Burgundy’

A taste of Burgundy – Part II

Posted by Frank Ward on September 17, 2011

lt’s a bright sunny day and the sloping vineyards of Morey Saint Denis are in full leaf and looking at their best. I’ve just left Domaine Dujac, with celestial savours Iingering on my palate, and realize that there’s a thirty-minute gap in my programme. Que faire? The famous Clos des Lambrays, one of Morey’s four Grands Crus, is just around the corner and the wine would be well worth tasting.

Posted in Burgundy, Tasting notes | Tagged: Burgundy, Château de la Tour, Clos des Lambray, Domaine Jacques Frédéric Mugnier, Etienne Sauzet, restaurant le Chambolle | Leave a Comment »

A taste of Burgundy – Part I

Posted by Frank Ward on August 20, 2011

The Pinot Noir of Burgundy is the world’s most delicate red variety. In poor years it fails to achieve complete ripeness and can give thin, acidic wines. ln excessively hot years it can also yield unsatisfactory results. When grapes approach or attain overripeness the resultant wine is heavy and disagreeably jammy.

Posted in Burgundy, Tasting notes | Tagged: Burgundy, Domaine Armand Rousseau, Domaine Dujac, Domaine Perrot-Minot, Domaine Trapet, Edvard Munch | Leave a Comment »

Sixty Burgundies from 2008

Posted by Frank Ward on May 22, 2011

History, they say, repeats itself though never in exactly the same way. The same is true of Burgundy vintages, with the repetition often occurring in pairs, at ten-year intervals. The 2008 vintage in Burgundy bears an uncanny resemblance to 1998, while 2007 is strikingly like 1997. Ten years before that, ’87 and ’86 followed a similar pattern.

Posted in Burgundy, Tasting notes | Tagged: 2008, Bonneau du Martray, Burgundy, Comtes Senard, de Montille, Dujac, Faiveley, Georges Roumier, Henri Gouges, J.-F. Mugnier, Jean Grivot, Joseph Drouhin, Louis Jadot, Meo Camuzet, Michel Gaunoux, Tollot Beaut, Trapet | Comments Off on Sixty Burgundies from 2008

Tasting the 2006s of Domaine de la Romanée Conti

Posted by Frank Ward on February 25, 2009

To Corney & Barrow, hard by the Tower of London, to taste the 2006 wines of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. l’d tasted the wines earlier, in May 2007*, when still in barrel, and it would be fascinating to see them again now that they were in bottle. I might also have a chance to have a chat with the joint owner, Aubert de Villaine, who I’ve known for well over 20 years. M. de Villaine had already commented on the vintage…

Posted in Burgundy, Tasting notes | Tagged: 2006 DRC, Aubert de Villaine, Burgundy, domaine Romanée Conti | Comments Off on Tasting the 2006s of Domaine de la Romanée Conti

Tasting of Red & White Burgundies from Domaines Familiaux de Tradition

Posted by Frank Ward on April 28, 2008

2005 is clearly a very great vintage in Burgundy and may well turn out to be the greatest of the thirty or more that I’ve sampled over the last few decades. Colours of both whites and reds are not merely limpid and intense but also nuanced, with the whites often having that chlorophyll-green tinge found in top vintages with ideal…

Posted in Tasting notes | Tagged: 2005, Burgundy, Domaines familiaux de tradition | Comments Off on Tasting of Red & White Burgundies from Domaines Familiaux de Tradition

Burgundy Excursion

Posted by Frank Ward on July 15, 2007

The Pinot Noir of Burgundy is one of the world’s greatest grapes. It is also one of the quirkiest. It ripens with difficulty, and once ripe easily becomes overripe, thus losing its unique purity and finesse. It is susceptible to rot, and if unripe can give unpleasantly raw, astringent flavours.

Posted in Tasting notes | Tagged: blain gagnard, Burgundy, Château de la Tour, domaine anne gros, Domaine Armand Rousseau, domaine carillon, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé, domaine grivault, Dujac, Etienne Sauzet, françois labet, Leflaive, marquis d'angerville, pierre morey, pinot noir, Romanée Conti | Comments Off on Burgundy Excursion

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